On Cuzco

Though I was indeed charmed by the tiny, steep colonial streets and the juxtaposition of Spanish and Incan influences (one cannot miss the astounding Incan walls), my first impression of Cuzco was considerably spoiled by my distaste for the abundance of all things catering to the international tourist.

What I discovered yesterday, however, is that despite the swarms of tourist shops and restaurants, Cuzco is still an adorable little place that I could definitely see myself spending more time in. Indeed one need not wander far from the Plaza de Armas, the hear of the tourists world, to discover how much more there is to this city. Even just a quick stop at one of the many cafes and you feel you could loose a half a day just hanging out (and indeed, I did just that). You could not believe how tiny some of these places are. The other night I ate at a restaurant with four tables, and yesterday I relaxed at a cafe with just three. It is a very relaxed place with something new to discover along every narrow cobblestone street.

Once you get far enough away from the masses, you quickly discover that this is indeed a poor place. Trash and the smell of urine is abundant (but we are not in India, that is for sure!) along the quieter streets farther from the center. Small homes litter the hills surrounding the center of the city and children run the streets in filthy clothing. But there is also a vibrant community of young, well-off Peruvians and plenty of places catering not to the tourist, but to these locals. This is where I found myself last night, but more on that to come.