It's hard to imagine anyone spending any length of time in India (i.e. more than a week or two) and not making the trip down to the backwaters. If nothing else for the welcome respite from India's crowded and dirty cities, a much more interesting one I'm sure than can be found on the shores of Goa or other popular beaches.
I opted to spend my time doing a homestay in a small village deep in the backwaters (vs. renting a houseboat, a large boat which putters around the waters for a few days). I have to admit my most rewarding travel experiences have been my homestays with families, as it's an opportunity to have your own guide to the local customs and really learn about the place you are at.
Greenpalms homestay is far from where most tourist reach, an hours ferry from Alleppy, the town where most houseboats start and end. I stayed with a family: the grandmother, her single son Matthew, her older son Thomas along with his wife and two daughters. The village is very family oriented and there were to be three homes all clustered together: the historical family home, about 80 years old which was to go to Matthew; Thomas's home, which they had just laid the cornerstones for the day I arrived; and an enormous home that his sister had just constructed. She currently lives in England, is very wealthy, and planned to move home and make her living of renting out its many rooms.
Anna, the mother, did all the cooking. Three meals a day and it was fabulous. I took the opportunity to cook with her one day. Aside from me, there were to British boys staying there. Thomas took the three of us on a four hour bike ride through different villages and islands, Matthew took us on a walk and downloaded his extensive knowledge of the history of the backwaters, and we took the canoe out on our own one evening and had a memorable swim in the warm waters at dusk.
I have difficulty finding the words to describe how beautiful the backwaters are. Ridiculously picturesque, gorgeous, serene, peaceful. I took many, many pictures and they seem to convey only a glimmer of what I saw.
Jonny and Zach (the Brits) had a houseboat coming for a day so I jumped on with them. While it wasn't quite as magical as the homestay, I'm very glad I did it. If you plan to head to Kerala, I'd definitely do both.
Just make sure to bring your bug repellent. I am a walking field of mosquito bites.
I opted to spend my time doing a homestay in a small village deep in the backwaters (vs. renting a houseboat, a large boat which putters around the waters for a few days). I have to admit my most rewarding travel experiences have been my homestays with families, as it's an opportunity to have your own guide to the local customs and really learn about the place you are at.
Greenpalms homestay is far from where most tourist reach, an hours ferry from Alleppy, the town where most houseboats start and end. I stayed with a family: the grandmother, her single son Matthew, her older son Thomas along with his wife and two daughters. The village is very family oriented and there were to be three homes all clustered together: the historical family home, about 80 years old which was to go to Matthew; Thomas's home, which they had just laid the cornerstones for the day I arrived; and an enormous home that his sister had just constructed. She currently lives in England, is very wealthy, and planned to move home and make her living of renting out its many rooms.
Anna, the mother, did all the cooking. Three meals a day and it was fabulous. I took the opportunity to cook with her one day. Aside from me, there were to British boys staying there. Thomas took the three of us on a four hour bike ride through different villages and islands, Matthew took us on a walk and downloaded his extensive knowledge of the history of the backwaters, and we took the canoe out on our own one evening and had a memorable swim in the warm waters at dusk.
I have difficulty finding the words to describe how beautiful the backwaters are. Ridiculously picturesque, gorgeous, serene, peaceful. I took many, many pictures and they seem to convey only a glimmer of what I saw.
Jonny and Zach (the Brits) had a houseboat coming for a day so I jumped on with them. While it wasn't quite as magical as the homestay, I'm very glad I did it. If you plan to head to Kerala, I'd definitely do both.
Just make sure to bring your bug repellent. I am a walking field of mosquito bites.
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